Showing posts with label Special Finishing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Special Finishing. Show all posts
Friday, 30 May 2014

Factors Influencing the Functions of Optical Brighteners


Optical Brighteners
The optical brighteners counteract the yellowness of the fabric by increasing the reflection of blue light rays. They convert invisible short-wave ultraviolet rays of sunlight into visible blue light and has a degree of whiteness which is comparatively more intense.
Optical Brighteners
Factors Influencing the Functions of Optical Brighteners
Optical brighteners or optical whiteners are applied to substrate as a separate after-treatment process or are incorporated into bleaching and finishing baths. Since the fluorescent brightening agents behave like dyestuffs, their efficiency and effectiveness are influenced by various factors that are important in application.

Substrate
The brightening effect is dependent on the nature of the substrate. For example, a very strong reflectance is observed with whitened cotton, but it is weaker in viscose and wool. All synthetic fibres absorb strongly in the near ultraviolet region. Since the fluorescence produced by optical brightening agent is added to reflectance of the substrate, the maximum fluorescence effect is achieved on those substrate whose ability to absorb the ultraviolet region is suppressed by chemical brightening. In the absence of sufficient affinity of brighteners, the application results in yellow to green colour yield.

Saturation
There is a saturation limit for each optical whitening agent. Above certain concentration on the fibre a yellow colour is superimposed on the flourescence resulting in decrease in whiteness. This is because at higher concentration of brighteners a protective optical layer (filter) is formed on the surface of the substrate which prevents the extinction of the molecules of the brightening agent in deeper layers (so called self-quenching, concentration quenching of fluorescence or filter effect).

Method of application
The saturation limit of an optical brightening agent, however, is also dependent on the method of application to the substrate. Usually exhaust application process gives higher whiteness value then it does when applied by padding technique for a given amount of whitener.

Time
Generally optical brightening agents have high rate of exhaustion on the substrate and therefore great care is to be taken to avoid unlevel application. Slow exhaustion rate and increased migration time is necessary to produce level whiteness on the fabric.

Temperature
The optimum temperatures of optical brightening agents on cellulosic fibres are usually between 40 and 60~ and further rise in temperature tend to lower the exhaustion. However, for synthetic fibres higher temperature is needed for good penetration of the brighteners.

pH
The chemical stability, solubility and affinity of optical brightening agents depend on effective pH value in solution. For example, for wool and polyamide fibres, optimum pH is on the acidic side for better exhaustion.

Salt
Generally salt is added in the application bath to promote and also to control the rate of exhaustion of the brighteners on cellulosic fibres.

Sunday, 4 May 2014

What is Biopolishing of Textiles? | Process of Bio-polishing in Textile


An Overview of Bio-polishing in Textile
Sabina Yesmin Rony
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology (DUET)
Email: sabina.yesmin.520@facebook.com





What is Bio-polishing:
Bio-polishing is a finishing process that enhances fabric quality by decreasing the pilling tendency and fuzziness of (cellulose) knitted fabrics .This finishing process applied to cellulose textiles that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes .This process removes protruding fibres & slubs from knitted fabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and provides a smooth fabric appearance .
Bio-polished garment
About the Bio-polishing :
The bio-polishing process targets the removal of the small fiber ends protruding from the yarn surface and thereby reduces the hairiness or fuzz of the fabrics. The hydrolysis action of the enzyme weakens the protruding fibers to the extent that a small physical abrasion force is sufficient to break and remove them. Bio polishing can be accomplished at any time during wet processing but is most convenient performed after bleaching.

It can be done in both continuous or batch processes. However, continuous processes require some incubation time for enzymatic degradation to take place. Removing the fuzz makes the color brighter, the fabric texture more obvious, and reduces pilling. Unfortunately, the treatment also reduces the fabric strength. Smoother yarns also increase the fabric softness, appearance and feel. Since it is an additional process, the bio-polished garments may cost slightly more. Next time you buy apparel, look for the label “Bio-Polished.

Object of Bio-Polishing :
  1. To removes protruding fibres & slubs
  2. To removes Hairiness, fluffs and pills .
  3. To Prevented material sticking .
  4. To softens fabric hand & improved handle .
  5. To achievement of surface smoothness and a clear structural appearance & improved luster .
  6. To imporved material texture relaxation & increased flexibility.
  7. To improved sewability & Fast to washing, low pilling tendency, no napping in use, or during care operation.
  8. To Converted fabrics from Poor quality, uneven, napped, knoppy material surface to lustrous, soft, elegant,top quality with a fine, high quality surface appearance.
Process of Bio-polishing :
There are two process of Bio-polishing .
  1. Dyeing followed by bio-polishing.
  2. Bio-polishing before Dyeing .
Process sequence of Dyeing followed by bio-polishing :

Scoured &bleaching sample

Dye addition

Salt addition

Soda ash addition

Dyeing

Hot wash

Hot wash

Soaping (at boil temperature )

Hot Wash

Cold wash

Enzyme treatment

Cold wash

Drying


Process sequence of Bio-polishing before Dyeing :

Scoured & bleaching sample

Bio-polishing

Cold wash

Drying

Dye addition

Salt addition

Soda ash addition

Hot wash

Hot wash

Soaping (at boil temperature )

Hot Wash

Cold wash

Drying


Process Variables :
To achieve optimum bio-polishing, the process variables have been varied as mentioned below ……
  • Concentration : Concentration of enzyme: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 2.5%, 3% & 4%.
  • Temperature : Temperatures are 40 0C, 45 0C, 50 0C, 55 0C & 60 0C.
  • pH : 3 - 4, 4 - 5 & 5 - 6.
  • M : L : 1:5, 1:10, 1:15 & 1:20.
  • Mechanical Agitation: Vigorous Stirring, Medium Stirring & Without Stirring.
Standard Recipe for Bio-polishing :
  • Concentration of Enzyme = 3%
  • M : L = 1:10 
  • Temperature = 55 0C
  • Time = 55 minutes
  • pH = 4 - 5
Application Method :
Enzymatic cellulose degradation is also possible during reactive dyeing. Here the dyeing process as well as bio-polishing will be affected. We can applied this process Number of washes, time, cost and energy can be saved by this one bath method. However, it should be noted that there is some reduction in colour yield of reactive dyeing. This is because reactive dyeing is carried out in acidic pH during bio-polishing. But precaution is taken during addition of soda-ash as reactive dyes require alkaline condition for its fixation. The fabric is made neutral before adding soda-ash. It is found that neutral stable enzymes are more suitable in this type of one bath treatment.

Advantages & Disadvantages :
  1. Depth of shade increases when enzyme treatment is given before dyeing but the depth decreases when enzyme treatment is given after dyeing.
  2. Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample after dyeing is good but Wash fastness of the enzyme treated sample before dyeing is very poo .
  3. One bath application saves energy, time & cost but the bio-polishing effect is not as good as the two bath method .
  4. Decreases the Pilling tendency .
  5. Loss in weight.
  6. Loss in strength.
Conclusion :
With the advantages of Bio-polishing there have some disadvantage of this process . So ,we have need to handle the process with carefully by controlling Concentration ,Temperature ,pH , M:L , & Time .